While serving as a radio
operator with the U.S. Air Force at Tan Son Nhut Air Base,
RVN, (1967-1968), I had occasion to visit the city of Saigon fairly
frequently. Saigon was always an interesting place to me and where the U.S. Embassy was located, but still
culturally light-years away from my home in California, which was where
I had spent my first twenty years. Saigon had a kind of magical,
carnival-like quality to it. Above all, I remember the hustle and bustle
of vehicles and people on Saigon's main commercial street which was
called Tudo.
On Tudo (Freedom) Street,
cars, trucks, military vehicles, scooters, pedicabs (motorized and not),
and bicycles all seemed to converge in some incoherent mess which,
miraculously, seemed to nearly always right itself. That conglomeration of
vehicles, and somehow in its collective wisdom, slowed and swerved in a
zig-zaggy fashion in order to just narrowly miss one another, and just at
the right moment. Sometimes they did not miss each other, since Tudo
street always seemed to be just a great jumbled and clogged mess of
individual machines whose operators did not always judge distance
accurately, or who just managed to misjudge the actions of other machine
operators at the most inappropriate time. Crash, slam, crunch!... as
vehicles would sometimes collide. Such a collision created in its wake the
sound of honk, honks...beep, beeps! Or... was it the other way around?
Just as Tudo Street, the
roadway, was clogged with vehicles plus the occasional brave soul who
dared cross the street, the Tudo Street sidewalks were likewise clogged
with people. Most of the people were closely moving, but slowly in one
direction or another along the sidewalks, and in almost a heel-to-toe and
nose-to-neck manner. Other people, the Vietnamese vendors, whose sidewalk
storefronts sold all sorts of black market American goods, presented
obstacles to the free flow of pedestrian traffic on the sidewalks. So,
sometimes in order to continue in the normal American GI gait of moving on
along straightway, one had to step off the sidewalk and onto the street
momentarily so as to avoid a slow moving clog of pedestrians just ahead.
One afternoon on a
sunny day in Saigon in 1967, my buddy and I were doing the town.
Just
walkin' around, mind you. He and I were doing nothing special. We were
gawkers and just plain observers of the sights, sounds, and smells
surrounding us on Tudo Street while we walked along one of its sidewalks.
As the traffic light turned green (yes, mom, Saigon had traffic lights),
my bud and I cautiously crossed the street to the next block on Tudo
Street, with him walking in front of me a few paces. I noticed that he had
stepped onto the sidewalk but after having taken a few steps had taken an
abnormally wide semicircular path onto the street itself. I figured he was
avoiding another pedestrian clog on the Tudo Street sidewalk, but I
thought he was nuts to get so close in the path of traffic, given those
crazy vehicle drivers on Tudo Street. It was shortly after my
"so-astute" observation of my buddy's behavior that I met the
Tudo Street Whizzer.
As I was a few paces behind
my bud, I also swerved in my travel from the sidewalk and onto the street,
as indeed I did see a blockade of pedestrians on the sidewalk. Normal,
right? Although, I did not take the greater semicircular swath onto the
street that he did. While I confidently moved beyond that clump of
pedestrians on the sidewalk, I simultaneously saw and felt the Whizzer's
presence. Glancing off the bottom of my right cuff leg, but squarely
hitting my moving left thigh there was the unmistakable vision of fluid
and the feeling of wetness. Yes, I had been whizzed on, peed onto,
urinated upon by the Tudo Street Whizzer.
The worst was that now I
had to change clothing, and that would be a hassle as it meant going back
to the base. Just after I noticed that I was whizzed upon, I slowed,
stopped and turned, but saw that the Whizzer was a young boy, probably
around 7-9 years of age, and in a school uniform. We looked at each other,
and he giggled along with his other young schoolmates. I just walked on
and beyond the laughter and giggles of those young kids. GI Number One I
guess, and for a variety of reasons, not the least of which was getting
accidentally whizzed upon, and owing to GI stupidity and especially
because of the culture differences.
Then as now,
and in California, I don't think that public urination was or is
permitted. And, if caught, you could be hauled off to the brig, or
hoosgal, or by any other word simply the slammer. But, in Saigon and by
contrast, male citizens especially there and then whizzed when necessary
and wherever. Now, just tell me, who's culture is better, boys? Think
about beer, and lots of it. And yet, if you happen to get the opportunity,
and by some time travel kind of device, to go to Saigon in 1967, just be a
little more skeptical about those smells in the streets of Saigon. I think
that they are a stewy mixture of things I had never before considered.
But, the culture of Vietnam, especially as it then-concerned the matter of
public relief is quite a draw for me. I think that there is something
there, fellas. Now, in 1998, the culture of Vietnam is a draw for me for
entirely different reasons.